Knife glossary: technical terms about kitchen knives explained

No other knife handles so many tasks. The curved edge allows the rocking cut: the tip stays on the board while the handle moves up and down. The high blade leaves room for the knuckles and serves as a scoop for the cut food.

• 16 cm: compact and agile – ideal for smaller hands, small kitchens and single-person households.
• 20–21 cm: the classic standard length for home cooks.
• 23–25 cm: for large quantities, pumpkin, cabbage and large roasts – more for professionals.

A good chef’s knife is balanced in the hand at the transition from blade to handle (see balance).

Compared with the chef’s knife, the edge is flatter and hardly curved. That is why the Santoku is mainly used with the push cut: straight down and slightly forward. The wide blade is excellent for picking up cut food.

• Blade length usually 15–18 cm, at VOCUT also 20 cm
• Flat edge – for evenly thin slices
• Often with a Granton edge so that slices don’t stick

The straight edge meets the board along its entire length at the same time. This produces clean, continuous cuts – without cucumber or leek slices hanging together. The blunt, square tip is intentional: the Nakiri is not a knife for tip work.

• The wide blade carries the cut food straight into the pot or pan
• Ideal for cabbage, leeks, onions, root vegetables and herbs
• Used with the push or up-and-down cut

In traditional Japanese cuisine, the Kiritsuke was considered the head chef’s knife. Today it is popular with ambitious home cooks because it combines several tasks in one tool: long, drawing cuts through fish and meat, vegetables with the push cut and precise fine work with the tip.

The VOCUT Kiritsuke has a double-sided edge and is therefore equally suitable for right- and left-handers.

• Gyuto: the Japanese counterpart to the chef’s knife, usually slimmer and more pointed.
• Bunka: all-purpose knife with a K-tip, related to the Santoku and Kiritsuke.
• Petty: small all-purpose knife (12–15 cm), comparable to the paring knife.
• Deba: heavy, single-bevel knife for breaking down fish.
• Yanagiba: long, single-bevel knife for sashimi.
• Usuba: single-bevel professional vegetable knife.

Single-bevel knives are designed for one hand (see left- and right-handers).

The serrated edge works like a fine saw: with long, calm strokes and little pressure you cut through crust and crumb. The blade should be longer than the loaf is wide – which is why 20–23 cm is common.

Also well suited for tomatoes, citrus fruit, pineapple, melon, hard-skinned pumpkin as well as cakes and sponge bases.

Note: a serrated edge can hardly be resharpened at home. The free VOCUT resharpening service only applies to forged knives with a plain edge – bread knives are excluded.

The small knife with the distinctive spine is a classic of the Bergisches Land breakfast table. The rounded tip makes it safe, the short blade handy: slicing rolls, spreading butter, cutting cheese, sausage, tomatoes and fruit for breakfast or supper.

• Blade length usually 10–12 cm
• Arched spine (“Buckel”), rounded tip
• Depending on the version with a plain or serrated edge

Many people associate the Buckels knife with childhood memories of breakfast at their grandparents’ – it is a piece of everyday Solingen culture.

With the Zöppken you traditionally work “in the hand” – i.e. without a cutting board: peeling potatoes, trimming vegetables, cutting apples, snipping beans. It is the little workhorse of many kitchens in the Bergisches Land and Rhineland and is often used for generations.

• Short, thinly ground blade – depending on the shape straight, slightly curved or pointed
• Handy wooden handle, often made of beech, plum or olive wood
• Known regionally as Zöppken, Zöppkes or Pitter knife

If you are looking for a knife specifically for peeling round fruit, a peeling knife with a curved blade is a good choice.

The curved blade follows the curve of apples, potatoes or onions. You hold the knife close to the blade and work with your thumb as a counter support – precisely and with little waste.

• Peeling potatoes, apples, pears, citrus fruit
• Turning: cutting vegetables into even, barrel-shaped pieces
• Removing eyes from potatoes and bruises from fruit

The German name comes from “spicken” (larding): in the past, the pointed blade was used to pierce holes in roasts to insert bacon or garlic. Today it is the small all-purpose knife for everything the chef’s knife is too big for.

• Finely chopping garlic and shallots
• Deseeding chillies and peppers
• Cutting fruit, hulling strawberries
• Cutting small quantities on the board

Together with the chef’s knife and bread knife, it forms the sensible basic equipment.

A plain-edged steak knife cuts the meat instead of sawing it. This means less meat juice escapes and the cut surface stays nice. Steak knives with a serrated edge, on the other hand, stay sharp longer even when they hit porcelain – both have their place.

As a set for 4 or 6 people, steak knives are a popular gift for BBQ fans.

At the grill, the long stroke counts: a long blade cuts large pieces of meat in one cut – without sawing, without tearing. The strong blade can also cut through joints.

VOCUT BBQ knives are available with an olive wood handle for the BBQ evening and with a pink plastic handle for intensive, hygienic use.

The narrow blade creates little friction, and the length allows a single long pull cut. This produces thin, smooth slices without fraying. It is often used together with a carving fork that holds the meat in place.

Variants: salmon knife (very long, often with a Granton edge) and ham knife (long and flexible).

• Sticking knife: narrow, pointed blade – traditionally used for sticking during slaughter, today also as a versatile meat knife.
• Slaughter knife: wider, strong blade for separating larger parts and for skinning.
• Butchering knife: for portioning large pieces.
• Boning knife: short and pointed for removing meat from the bone.

In the kitchen, a meat knife is practical for removing sinew and silver skin (trimming) or portioning steaks.

In butcher shops, slaughterhouses and gastronomy, cutting performance, safety and hygiene count more than looks. Typical equipment: boning knife, butchering knife, sticking and slaughter knives, fillet knife, cleaver and a honing steel.

Coloured handles help to separate food groups (see HACCP & colour coding). The pink VOCUT professional series is also a real eye-catcher at the counter.

The curved version hugs round bones and allows flowing movements. The straight version offers more control for straight cuts. A slightly flexible blade follows contours better, a stiff one transmits more force.

Also useful in the home kitchen: jointing a chicken, deboning a leg of lamb, separating ribs from a roast.

It sits between the chef’s knife and the boning knife: wide enough for powerful, straight cuts, narrow enough for precise guidance along bones and muscle strands. Standard in butcher shops and professional kitchens.

Flexibility is the decisive feature: the blade follows the contour of the bones instead of cutting straight. A stiff knife would leave more flesh on the bones.

• Filleting and skinning fish
• Wafer-thin slices of salmon or carpaccio
• Removing silver skin from meat

The terms are often used interchangeably:

• Cleaver / butcher’s cleaver: very heavy, thick spine – the weight breaks bones.
• Rocking knife (VOCUT): wide, curved blade with a handle. Thanks to the curve it can be rocked on the board – for chopping meat, herbs and vegetables and for cutting up food at the grill.
• Mezzaluna: half-moon-shaped rocking knife with two handles, mainly for herbs.

Tip: for bones, always use a sufficiently heavy knife and strike vertically – sideways levering damages any blade.

Better three really good knives than twelve mediocre ones. The chef’s knife handles all larger tasks, the small knife the fine work, the bread knife everything with a hard crust or skin.

Useful additions: a Santoku or Nakiri for lots of vegetables, steak knives for the table, a BBQ knife for BBQ fans – and a honing steel to keep everything sharp.

• Soft cheese: blade with holes or Granton dimples, often with a forked tip for picking up.
• Semi-hard cheese: wide, straight blade; if need be, a chef’s knife will do.
• Hard cheese (Parmesan): short, spade-shaped knife used to break off pieces.

A dull plain blade slips on tomato skin – which is also a popular sharpness test. A well-sharpened chef’s knife or Santoku cuts tomatoes just as cleanly, though. The tomato knife is more a convenience than a necessity.

• Tip: for piercing, incisions and fine work.
• Edge: the sharpened edge, see edge.
• Spine: the blunt top; the index finger can rest here.
• Flats: the side surfaces of the blade – space for the blade stamp and laser engraving.
• Heel: the rear part of the edge near the handle – for powerful cuts.

Under the microscope, every edge consists of tiny teeth. When cutting, they bend – the knife feels dull even though hardly any material is missing. A honing steel realigns them. Once the edge is worn, it needs to be sharpened.

Instead of “Schneide”, German specialists also speak of the “Wate”. The narrow, sharpened area directly at the edge is called the edge bevel.

Three functions: finger protection against slipping onto the edge, balance through additional weight at the handle and stability at the most sensitive point of the knife.

A full bolster that extends to the edge makes it harder to sharpen the heel. That is why many modern knives have a “half” bolster that ends before the edge.

• Full tang: maximum stability, good balance, handle scales riveted on both sides.
• Partial tang: the tang only extends into part of the handle.
• Hidden tang: a narrow tang sits in a one-piece or multi-piece handle (typical of plastic and some wooden handles).

A hidden tang is not a quality defect: high-quality professional knives with a firmly overmoulded plastic handle are hygienic and very durable.

Visible rivets show that the handle is not just glued. On olive wood handles, stainless steel or brass rivets also add a nice accent. A flush, gap-free transition is important so that no moisture or food residue can settle.

The marking “Solingen” may only appear on cutlery made in all essential production stages in the Solingen industrial area (see Solingen Ordinance).

VOCUT places a personal laser engraving on the back of the blade – the logo side remains unchanged.

Good balance reduces fatigue during longer cutting. A blade-heavy knife strains the wrist but supports chopping movements. A handle-heavy knife gives less feel at the tip.

How to test it: place the knife crosswise at the bolster on your outstretched index finger. If it stays still, it is balanced.

• Flat grind / V-grind: the blade tapers evenly to the edge – robust and versatile.
• Convex grind: slightly curved flats – very stable, glides well through food.
• Hollow grind: concave flats – very thin behind the edge, typical of straight razors.
• Single-bevel grind: Japanese tradition, designed for one hand.

A thick blade (e.g. 3 mm at the spine) is stable and can take more; a thin one glides more easily through hard vegetables.

• Rocking cut: the tip stays on the board, the handle is moved up and down.
• Push cut: push forwards and down – for even slices.
• Pull cut: long, drawing movement towards the body – for soft or delicate food.

Basic rule: the knife cuts, not the pressure. A sharp knife needs hardly any force – and is therefore safer.

Typical of the European chef’s knife, because its edge curves towards the tip. For finely chopped herbs, the spine is also guided with the flat of the hand and the knife is moved in a fan shape over the food.

The classic technique for the Santoku and Nakiri with their flat edge. It is particularly precise and gentle on the edge because it does not scrape across the board.

The longer the blade, the fewer strokes are needed – which is why carving and bread knives are long. With a bread knife, you saw back and forth with little pressure.

The claw grip is the most important safety rule when cutting. The knuckles act as a guide and determine the thickness of the slices. The thumb stays behind the fingers.

Combined with the pinch grip of the cutting hand, this creates a safe, fast technique.

Professional chefs almost always hold knives this way. The grip is safer and more precise than holding only the handle or resting the index finger on the spine. A pronounced bolster or a rounded spine makes this grip comfortable.

• Julienne: strips of approx. 2 × 2 mm and 4–6 cm long.
• Brunoise: cubes of 2–3 mm, cut from julienne.
• Macédoine: cubes of about 5 mm.
• Chiffonade: leaves (e.g. basil) stacked, rolled and cut into fine strips.
• Paysanne: thin, flat slices.
• Turning: shaping vegetables into an even, seven-sided barrel shape with a peeling knife.

For julienne and brunoise, the Nakiri, Santoku and chef’s knife are equally suitable.

Place the blade under the end of the silver skin, hold the membrane taut with the other hand and guide the blade slightly upwards at an angle against the skin – this way hardly any meat remains on it. Fillet, boning or slim meat knives are suitable.

The designation decoded:

• X: high-alloy steel
• 50: 0.50 % carbon (value ÷ 100) – provides hardness
• Cr: chromium, here around 15 % – makes the steel corrosion-resistant
• Mo: molybdenum – improves toughness and corrosion resistance
• V: vanadium – forms fine, hard carbides for a fine edge
• 15: the chromium content in percent

The steel is robust, easy to resharpen and forgiving. What matters for quality is the heat treatment. All VOCUT knives are made of 1.4116, hardened to 56–58 HRC.

• below 54 HRC: soft – goes dull quickly, common in very cheap knives.
• 55–58 HRC: Solingen standard – robust, good edge retention, easy to resharpen.
• 59–61 HRC: hard – stays sharp for a long time, somewhat more sensitive.
• 62 HRC and above: very hard – extreme sharpness, but brittle; chipping possible under lateral load.

Higher is not automatically better: hardness comes at the price of brittleness. For everyday use, 56–58 HRC is a very good compromise.

“Rust-resistant” would be more accurate: even stainless steel can stain if it is left wet for a long time, remains in contact with acids or salt or is attacked in the dishwasher. This is usually surface rust, which is easy to remove.

The protective layer of chromium oxide is only a few nanometres thick. If it is damaged, it re-forms by itself in the air – provided the blade is clean and dry.

Many traditional Japanese knives are made of carbon steel. Over time a dark patina forms, which offers some protection against rust. Acidic foods can affect taste and colour.

For everyday use in a family kitchen, stainless steel such as 1.4116 is usually the more practical choice.

No real patina forms on stainless steel. Discolouration on stainless steel is usually limescale or water stains or surface rust.

Most Damascus knives are built like a sandwich: a hard core steel surrounded by decorative Damascus layers. Claims such as “67 layers” therefore say little about the quality of the edge.

Genuine Damascus is elaborate and expensive. With very cheap offers, the pattern is often only etched or lasered.

VG-10 is also a popular Japanese knife steel (not a powder steel), usually at 59–61 HRC. Such steels stay sharp longer but require whetstones and more care. For robust everyday use, 1.4116 is often the more relaxed choice.

• Carbon (C): main factor for hardness – more C = harder, but more brittle.
• Chromium (Cr): rust-resistant from 10.5 %; also binds carbon into carbides.
• Molybdenum (Mo): increases toughness and resistance to pitting.
• Vanadium (V): forms very hard, fine carbides – for a fine, wear-resistant edge.

• Steel and hardness: harder steel lasts longer but is more brittle.
• Sharpening angle: more acute = sharper, but dulls faster.
• Cutting surface: wood is gentle, glass and stone ruin the edge.
• Technique: lateral pressure and scraping the edge across the board dull it quickly.

Tip: use the spine, not the edge, to push cut food together.

A tough steel tends to bend rather than chip – and can be realigned with the honing steel. A very hard steel stays sharp longer but can chip on contact with bone or under lateral pressure.

Ceramic does not rust and is taste-neutral. Disadvantage: the blade does not bend but breaks. Bones, frozen food and levering are taboo. Sharpening is only possible with diamond tools.

Useful as an addition for fruit and vegetables – as a main knife, good steel is the more versatile choice.

Knife blades need hardenable steel such as 1.4116. That is why, in cutlery sets, the knife and the fork/spoon are made of different steels.

At VOCUT: the Solingen origin refers to the cutlery blades. Forks and spoons are not made in Solingen; for steak cutlery and cutlery sets, the knife is from Solingen.

In Solingen, drop forging is common today: the heated blank is struck into a mould (die) with a drop hammer. This is followed by deburring, hardening and tempering, grinding, polishing, handle assembly and the final hand finishing – dozens of work steps, many of them by hand.

• Integrated bolster and good balance
• Robust and durable
• Typically heavier than stamped knives

You can recognise forged VOCUT knives in the shop by the word “forged”. The free resharpening service applies to them.

Stamped does not mean inferior: with good steel, careful hardening and a good grind, stamped knives are excellent tools. Many professional knives in butcher shops are stamped – they are light, flexible and cause less fatigue.

Differences from the forged knife: usually no bolster, lower weight, can be sharpened along the entire edge.

For the same steel, heat treatment is the biggest lever for edge retention and toughness. Too hot, too cold, too long or too short – and the blade becomes too soft or too brittle. Solingen companies have built up experience here over generations.

Some manufacturers add a cryogenic treatment that further refines the structure.

The blade grind determines the geometry: how thinly the blade tapers towards the edge. It is then fine-ground and polished – matt, satin or glossy depending on the desired look. Only at the very end is the actual edge sharpened and honed.

Machines grind precisely – but experienced hands feel small irregularities that a machine does not detect. Hand finishing is therefore a valued quality feature of Solingen knives.

In contrast to etching, laser engraving is very precise and crisp. At VOCUT, engraving is done in Solingen, on the back of the blade – the logo side remains unchanged.

• What to engrave? Name, initials, date, coordinates, a short sentence.
• How much? 1–2 lines look best.
• Delivery time: with engraving, 2–4 working days of additional processing time.

The basis is the Solingen Ordinance of 1994. A knife made in the Far East and merely packaged in Solingen may not be called “Solingen”. The designation therefore stands for genuine origin – and for centuries of craftsmanship.

All VOCUT knives are made entirely in Solingen: hardening, grinding, polishing and assembly take place in Solingen.

• § 1: All essential production stages must take place in the Solingen industrial area, and the goods must be fit for their purpose.
• § 2: The area of origin comprises the city of Solingen and the city of Haan.
• § 3: It covers knives, scissors, cutlery and straight razors, among other things.

The protection is monitored by the Bergische IHK (Chamber of Commerce) with its expert advisory board; Solingen manufacturers also fund an “Initiative to protect the designation Solingen”, which takes action against counterfeits in Germany and abroad – including border seizures.

For centuries, the many streams of the Bergisches Land powered hammers and grinding mills. The knowledge of the smiths, hardeners, grinders and Ausmachers was passed down in families over generations. Many work steps were traditionally done in small workshops – a network of specialised craftsmen.

Today, Solingen is home to large traditional brands as well as small manufactories and young brands like VOCUT.

The water wheels on the Wupper and its tributaries drove the grindstones. The work was hard and damaging to health: grinding dust, damp and cold took their toll on the grinders. Well-known preserved Kotten such as the Wipperkotten or the Balkhauser Kotten are reminders of this time.

The Ausmacher is the finisher: he removes the last irregularities, sharpens and inspects the knife before it leaves the workshop. The father of VOCUT founder Orazio Vella worked in Solingen as an Ausmacher – this craft is the root of the brand.

Many of these trades were practised as home work in small workshops. A knife passed from hand to hand until it was finished.

Behind VOCUT there is no corporation, but a personal story: the craft runs in the family. The brand’s goal is honest knives from Solingen that prove themselves in everyday use – in the kitchen, at the grill and in professional use in butcher shops and gastronomy.

• Steel 1.4116 (X50CrMoV15), 56–58 HRC
• Olive wood handles from solid raw blocks from Italy – no bought-in ready-made handles
• Personalised laser engraving in Solingen
• Free resharpening service for forged VOCUT knives

The slogan: “Schneidet am besten ab!” (“Cuts best!”)

• Very hard, dense and resistant
• High natural oil content – pleasantly grippy, warm in the hand
• Every grain is unique
• Darkens over time and becomes more and more beautiful with care

Care: never in the dishwasher, dry immediately after washing and oil the handle occasionally.

• Linseed oil (food-safe): cures and protects very well but needs drying time. Caution: cloths soaked in linseed oil can self-ignite – let them dry spread out or dispose of them in a sealed jar with water.
• White mineral oil / cutting board oil: does not go rancid, easy to use.
• Olive oil, rapeseed oil: works in the short term but can smell rancid over time.

Afterwards, the handle should not be oily but silky – otherwise it becomes slippery.

Darkening is a natural process and makes every handle even more individual. A faded, grey handle is usually a sign of too little care or the dishwasher. Oiling once or twice usually brings the grain back.

Plastic tolerates hot water and disinfection. Many professional handles are ergonomically shaped and have a slightly textured surface so that they sit securely in the hand even with wet, greasy hands. Soft-touch surfaces feel particularly pleasant.

VOCUT offers professional knives with pink and yellow plastic handles as well as steak knives with POM handles. The small kitchen knives with plastic handles are available in black, pink and orange – they are dishwasher-safe.

• Beech: hard, light, often on entry-level knives and Zöppkes knives.
• Walnut: dark, elegant look.
• Plum wood: reddish-brown, very hard; classic on Solingen knives.
• Olive wood: golden brown with a lively grain, very dense – VOCUT’s hallmark.
• Pakkawood: laminated wood impregnated with synthetic resin, very robust.

What all natural wood handles have in common: no dishwasher, no soaking, occasional oiling.

Without joints or rivets, there are no places where dirt can collect. Textured handle surfaces improve grip.

• Size: the handle sits fully in the hand without the fingers protruding or cramping.
• Shape: no sharp edges, a pleasantly rounded spine for the pinch grip.
• Material: grippy even with damp hands.
• Blade height: enough clearance for the knuckles.

A single bevel allows an extremely fine edge but steers to the side when cutting. Left-handers need special versions for this. All VOCUT knives have a double-sided edge – including the Santoku, the Nakiri and the Kiritsuke.

• 10–15° per side: very sharp but delicate – typically Japanese.
• 15–20° per side: a good compromise – typical of Solingen kitchen knives.
• 20–25° per side: very robust – for knives under heavy use.

When resharpening, keep the existing angle if possible. A clip-on angle guide makes it easier to get started.

The serrated edge for bread knives was developed in Solingen; the Solingen manufactory Güde is considered the inventor of the typical serrated edge with pointed teeth. Today it is standard for bread knives.

Useful for: bread, rolls, tomatoes, citrus fruit, pineapple, pumpkin, cakes.
Less suitable for: meat, fish and soft vegetables – here it frays the food.

The tips of the serrations protect the recessed edge, which is why a serrated edge stays sharp for a long time. Resharpening is laborious (see ceramic and diamond rods). Knives with a serrated edge are excluded from the VOCUT resharpening service.

A Granton edge is not a sharpening angle but a design of the blade flat. It is often found on Santokus, salmon knives and cheese knives. Whether it is necessary depends on the food – with moist, starchy food it helps noticeably.

How it works: stand the honing steel vertically with its tip on a cloth or board. Place the blade at an angle of about 15–20° and draw it along the steel in a slight arc from heel to tip. Alternate sides, 5–8 strokes each, without pressure.

• When? Hone briefly before or after every bigger job.
• Which one? Drawn steel honing rods only realign; ceramic and diamond rods also remove a little material.
• Length: the steel should be at least as long as your longest blade.

• Drawn honing steel: realigns, no significant material removal.
• Ceramic rod: fine removal – ideal for slightly decreasing sharpness and for serrated edges (thin round rods).
• Diamond rod: strong removal – for hard steels, quick results; use sparingly.

• 200–600: coarse – for chips and very dull knives.
• 800–1,500: medium – the actual sharpening stone.
• 3,000–6,000: fine – refines and polishes.
• 8,000+: very fine – mirror polish for enthusiasts.

Soak or moisten water stones before use according to the manufacturer’s instructions and keep them wet while sharpening. Flatten stones regularly so that they stay level.

The fine cutting edge bends over in use – like a blade of grass in the wind. The honing steel straightens it again in seconds. If, on the other hand, the edge is worn or damaged, only the whetstone or a professional can help.

In everyday language, “sharpening” is used for both. Technically, sharpening is the umbrella term; honing and grinding are the two methods.

• Feeling the burr: carefully stroke your thumb across the edge from the spine towards the edge – never along the edge.
• Only switch sides when the burr can be felt along the entire length.
• Finally, remove the burr with light strokes on a fine stone, honing steel or leather strop.

Important: on the leather, the blade is always drawn spine first, never edge first – otherwise it cuts into the leather. The technique is known from the barber’s trade.

• Paper test: hold the sheet vertically and cut from above with a light pull – a clean cut = sharp.
• Tomato test: place the blade on it and pull without pressure – if it grips immediately, it is sharp.
• Light test: hold the edge up to the light. Dull spots reflect as a bright line.

For safety reasons, you should avoid testing on skin or a fingernail.

With many pull-through sharpeners, hard wheels scrape the edge open. This makes it sharp quickly but rough – and shortens the life of the blade. For cheap everyday knives that is fine, for forged knives less so.

For larger chips, enough material has to be removed until the edge is continuous again – that is work for professionals. With the VOCUT resharpening service, regular resharpening is free of charge; repairs of larger nicks may incur costs, which you will be informed about in advance.

If you hone regularly, you rarely need to sharpen. At the latest when the tomato test fails even though you have honed, sharpening is due.

• Wooden handle: dries out, swells, cracks and comes loose.
• Steel: salt and detergents attack the protective layer – surface rust forms.
• Edge: contact with cutlery and dishes causes nicks.
• Joints: moisture creeps under rivets and bolster.

Knives with plastic handles usually tolerate the machine – for sharpness, hand washing is still better.

Always wipe from the spine towards the edge or hold the cloth so that the edge points outwards. Rinse off acidic foods such as lemon, tomato, onion or vinegar promptly.

• Don’t leave it lying in the sink – risk of injury and damage
• No steel wool or abrasive sponges
• Never soak wooden handles

• Magnetic strip: blades don’t touch anything, well ventilated. Ideally with a wooden surface; attach and remove knives spine first.
• Knife block: classic and safe. Only put dry knives in and clean the block occasionally.
• Drawer insert or blade guard: space-saving and safe.

• Wood: gentle and pleasant – especially end-grain boards, where the fibres stand vertically.
• Plastic: hygienic, easy to clean, knife-friendly; replace if deeply scored.
• Bamboo: quite hard, less gentle on the edge than classic wood.
• Glass, stone, slate, porcelain: nice for serving, unsuitable for cutting.

Tip: a damp cloth under the board prevents it from slipping.

Surface rust is superficial and not a sign of bad steel. It often comes from the dishwasher or contact with rusting parts. How to remove it is explained under removing rust.

• Baking soda paste: apply, leave briefly, rub off with a soft cloth.
• Vinegar water or lemon juice: leave briefly (no longer than a few minutes), then rinse well.
• Cork and oil: polish with circular movements.

Deep rust or pitting belongs in expert hands. Rust is not the end of a good knife.

For professionals and BBQ fans, knife rolls made of leather or sturdy fabric are practical. When flying, kitchen knives never belong in hand luggage but safely packed in checked baggage; check the airline’s current rules beforehand.

The same applies to shipping: secure the blade well and pack it clearly – for example when you send your knife to the resharpening service.

• Sharp is safer: dull knives need pressure and slip.
• Falling knife: step back, don’t grab.
• Handing over: handle first, blade pointing down.
• Carrying: blade pointing down, close to the body.
• Children: let them practise with small knives with a rounded tip under supervision.

What shortens its service life: dishwasher, hard surfaces, storing wet, levering sideways and aggressive pull-through sharpeners.

What extends it: hand washing, a wooden or plastic board, regular honing and professional resharpening. For forged VOCUT knives, regular resharpening is free of charge (see resharpening service).

Before disposing of a knife, it is worth looking at the blade: many knives can be brought back into shape with professional sharpening. You can also give away or donate well-preserved knives.

The HACCP concept itself is mandatory for food businesses – the specific colours, on the other hand, are a widespread industry recommendation that each business defines in its hygiene concept. It is important that everyone in the team knows and follows the system.

Plastic handles are ideal for this: non-porous, heat-resistant and available in many colours. The pink VOCUT professional series is well suited, for example, to clearly identify a work area or a person.

Stainless blades, non-slip, hygienic handles and one knife per task are important. For canteens and restaurants, chef’s knives, Santoku, bread knives and utility knives are added.

The 6-piece VOCUT butcher knife set from Solingen covers the key tasks.

In professional everyday work, what counts is that the knives can be resharpened quickly, are hygienic and sit well in the hand. Many chefs have their own knife case that they bring to work, and they hone their knives several times a day.

• Steel & hardness: information available and plausible (see 1.4116, HRC).
• Workmanship: no gaps at the handle, clean rivets, even grind.
• Balance & ergonomics: sits securely in the hand.
• Origin: genuine information instead of fanciful names.
• Service: resharpening, a contact person, replacements.

A good knife is a purchase for many years. Calculated per use, it often costs only cents. More important than the number of knives is their quality: better three good ones than twelve mediocre ones.

The 5-piece VOCUT knife set with forged blades and olive wood handles covers the typical tasks in a kitchen and is also a beautiful gift.

• For BBQ fans: BBQ knife or steak knives.
• For home cooks: chef’s knife, Santoku or a knife set.
• Personal: with a laser engraving of names, a date or a saying.

For knives with engraving, allow 2–4 working days of additional processing time.

How it works:

1. Pack your forged VOCUT knife safely and send it to VOCUT.
2. The blade is professionally resharpened in Solingen.
3. The knife comes back to you ready for use.

Good to know:

• Free of charge for forged VOCUT knives with a plain edge – no matter where you bought them, including eBay.
• For a fee: non-forged VOCUT knives and knives from other brands (€5.90 per knife, from 5 knives €5.40).
• Not possible: knives with a serrated edge (e.g. bread knives).
• Costs: regular resharpening is free of charge; you bear the shipping costs. Repairs, such as larger nicks, may incur costs – you will be informed in advance.

• Delivery area: Germany only
• Shipping costs: €6.90 per order, free shipping from an order value of €100
• Delivery time: 1–3 working days, with engraving typically 4–7 working days
• Payment: including PayPal, credit card, SEPA direct debit, invoice and instalments via Klarna, prepayment

You can find all details under Payment & shipping.

Forks and spoons are made of 18/8 stainless steel, which is very corrosion-resistant. The knife, on the other hand, needs a hardenable blade steel. Cutlery with wooden handles needs the same care as knives: no dishwasher, occasional oiling.