FAQ: Frequently asked questions about kitchen knives

Short answer For most households, three good knives are enough: a chef’s knife (16–21 cm), a small utility or paring knife (8–12 cm) and a serrated bread knife (20–23 cm). With these you can handle almost every task in the kitchen.

Short answer Both are all-purpose knives. The Santoku is more compact, has a flat edge and is ideal for vegetables with a push cut. The chef’s knife has a curved edge for the rocking cut and is more versatile for large quantities and meat.

Short answer A good kitchen knife has a proven, cleanly hardened steel (e.g. 1.4116 at 55–58 HRC), an even edge, a seamless connection between blade and handle, good balance and a handle that sits securely in your hand.

Short answer For beginners, a chef’s knife with a blade of about 20 cm or a 16 cm Santoku made of robust stainless steel is ideal. Both are versatile, easy to care for and easy to resharpen with a honing steel or whetstone.

Short answer A solid kitchen knife from Solingen costs roughly between 30 and 150 euros, depending on the design. The extra cost is worth it if you cook regularly: a good knife stays sharp longer, cuts more safely and lasts for decades with good care.

Short answer The best all-round knife for most people is a chef’s knife with a 20–21 cm blade. It cuts, chops and rock-chops meat, fish, vegetables and herbs. If you prefer to work more compactly, choose a 16 cm Santoku.

Short answer As a rule of thumb: chef’s knife 16–21 cm, Santoku 15–18 cm, small utility knife 8–12 cm, bread knife 20–23 cm, steak knife 10–13 cm, BBQ and carving knife 20–25 cm. For everyday use, 20 cm is the most common chef’s knife length.

Short answer A chef’s knife typically weighs about 150 to 250 grams. More important than weight is balance: the centre of gravity should be at the transition from blade to handle so the knife can be guided without fatigue.

Short answer Warning signs are missing information on steel and hardness, fanciful origin claims such as “Solingen style”, unrealistically low prices for “Damascus” or large sets, no identifiable manufacturer and no contact person for service or resharpening.

Short answer A small knife set is worthwhile if it only contains knives you really use. Large sets with many specialist knives are often of lower quality than three to five carefully chosen individual knives.

Short answer For smaller hands, a chef’s knife of 15–16 cm or a Santoku with a 15–16 cm blade is ideal. They are lighter, more agile and easier to control than large 21 cm knives.

Short answer Any knife sharpened on both sides is suitable for left-handers – which means practically all European kitchen knives. All VOCUT knives have a double-sided edge, including Santoku, Nakiri and Kiritsuke.

Short answer Wooden handles such as olive wood are warm, grippy and each one is unique, but they need hand washing and occasional oiling. Plastic handles are non-porous, particularly hygienic and easy to care for – which is why they are standard in butcher shops and gastronomy.

Short answer Nakiri and Santoku are particularly suitable for vegetables: their flat edge meets the board along its whole length, so slices are cut cleanly. For small jobs such as trimming and peeling, add a utility knife.

Short answer For herbs, a sharp chef’s knife using the rocking cut or a mezzaluna is ideal. A really sharp edge is important – dull knives bruise the leaves, and the herbs turn dark and lose their aroma.

Short answer For a BBQ evening, three knives are usually enough: a butchering or chef’s knife for preparation, a long BBQ or carving knife for slicing and steak knives for the table.

Short answer Traditionally, the Yanagiba is intended for sashimi: a long, single-bevel knife used to cut fish in a single stroke. At home it also works with a long, very sharp knife such as a Kiritsuke or fillet knife.

Short answer For pumpkin, a large, sturdy chef’s knife (20–23 cm) or a strong mezzaluna is ideal. With very hard skin, a serrated bread knife helps to cut into the skin.

Short answer A sharp chef’s knife or Santoku cuts tomatoes effortlessly. If you often struggle with dull knives, choose a knife with a fine serrated edge that grips the smooth skin.

Short answer A small peeling knife with a curved blade or a Zöppkes knife is ideal for peeling fruit. Both work “in the hand”, follow the curve of apples and pears and leave little waste.

Short answer Thin blades with cut-outs are suitable for soft cheese, wide straight blades for semi-hard cheese and short, strong knives that break off pieces for hard cheese such as Parmesan.

Short answer If you cook a lot of meat, in addition to a chef’s knife you need a boning knife for deboning, a butchering or meat knife for portioning and steak knives for the table. For slicing large roasts, a long carving or BBQ knife is worthwhile.

Short answer Usually two to three knives are enough: a 16 cm chef’s knife or a Santoku, a small utility knife and a bread knife. More compact blades fit well into small kitchens and are quickly washed.

Short answer For bread rolls, a Buckels knife or bread roll knife is ideal: short blade, rounded tip and handy at the breakfast table. For large loaves, use a serrated bread knife.

Short answer A long serrated bread knife or a large chef’s knife. First cut off a lid at the top and bottom, stand the fruit on its flat side and cut off the skin from top to bottom.

Short answer The most versatile are the chef’s knife and the Santoku. Both cover meat, fish and vegetables. For special tasks such as filleting or boning, additional specialist knives are worthwhile.

Short answer To cut bread, use a serrated bread knife with a blade length of at least 20 cm. The serrated edge grips the hard crust and saws through it without squashing the soft crumb.

Short answer For meat, a sturdy chef’s or meat knife is suitable, plus a boning knife for deboning. For fish, use a flexible fillet knife that follows the bones. For sashimi and thin slices of fish, a long, very sharp knife is ideal.

Short answer A steak knife is a sharp table knife with a 10–13 cm blade used to cut meat cleanly on the plate. A plain edge separates the fibres instead of tearing them – so less meat juice escapes.

Short answer A BBQ knife is a sturdy knife with a long, strong blade (about 20–25 cm) for cutting, carving and portioning grilled food such as brisket, pulled pork, spare ribs or poultry.

Short answer The Nakiri is a Japanese vegetable knife with a rectangular blade and a straight edge. The name roughly means “leaf cutter”. It is ideal for vegetables using the push cut and carries the cut food straight into the pot or pan.

Short answer The Kiritsuke is a Japanese multi-purpose knife with an angled tip (“K-tip”). It combines the flat edge of a Nakiri with the fine tip of a sashimi knife and is suitable for vegetables, fish and meat.

Short answer “Kitchen knife” is the umbrella term for all knives used in the kitchen. The chef’s knife is a specific type: the large all-purpose knife with a wide, curved blade of about 16–25 cm.

Short answer With a serrated edge, the cutting edge has small waves or teeth that grip hard or smooth surfaces like a fine saw. It is ideal for bread, rolls, tomatoes, citrus fruit and pineapple, but less suitable for meat and fish.

Short answer The Santoku is a Japanese all-purpose knife (usually 15–20 cm) with a wide, flat blade and a rounded tip. The name means “three virtues” – meat, fish and vegetables.

Short answer The Buckels knife is a traditional Solingen breakfast and bread roll knife with a short blade (about 10–12 cm), a rounded tip and a high, arched spine – the “Buckel” (hump) that gives it its name.

Short answer The Zöppkes knife (“Zöppken”) is a small, traditional kitchen and peeling knife from the Bergisches Land with a short blade (about 6–9 cm) and a simple wooden handle. In many regions it is also called a Pitter knife.

Short answer The utility or paring knife is a small kitchen knife with an 8–12 cm pointed blade for fine work such as trimming, peeling, coring and garnishing. It is part of the basic equipment of every kitchen.

Short answer A boning knife has a short (13–16 cm), narrow and pointed blade – straight or curved – used to precisely separate meat from bone, sinew and cartilage. It is a standard knife in every butcher shop.

Short answer A fillet knife has a thin, flexible blade (15–22 cm) that hugs bones and skin. It lets you cleanly remove and skin fish fillets and cut wafer-thin slices.

Short answer A rocking knife has a wide, curved edge used to chop with a rolling rocking motion – for example herbs, onions, garlic or meat. At VOCUT, the rocking knife is a wide knife with a handle that is also used for cutting up food at the grill.

Short answer A carving knife has a long (20–30 cm), narrow blade used to cut roasts, poultry and ham into even, thin slices – usually together with a carving fork.

Short answer A butchering knife has a medium-width, sturdy blade (18–22 cm) for breaking down large pieces of meat and poultry and for portioning. It combines the power of a chef’s knife with the control of a boning knife.

Short answer The Gyuto is the Japanese counterpart to the European chef’s knife: a long all-purpose knife with a slightly curved edge and pointed blade, usually ground thinner and harder than European chef’s knives.

Short answer The Nakiri has a rectangular blade with a completely straight edge and no tip – a vegetable specialist. The Santoku has a rounded tip and a slightly curved edge and is an all-rounder for vegetables, meat and fish.

Short answer A peeling knife is a very small knife (about 5–8 cm), often with an inwardly curved blade (“bird’s beak”). It is used for peeling round fruit and vegetables and for turning.

Short answer Granton dimples are oval hollows above the edge. They create small air pockets so that thin slices of salmon, cheese, cucumber or potato stick less to the blade. A Granton edge does not make a knife sharper.

Short answer Sticking knives have a narrow, pointed blade and are traditionally used for sticking during slaughter, and today also as a versatile meat knife. Slaughter knives have a wider, strong blade for separating larger parts and for skinning.

Short answer Meat knife is the collective term for knives with a pointed, sturdy blade (usually 15–26 cm) for cutting, trimming and portioning raw meat. In the kitchen you use it to remove sinew and silver skin or to cut steaks.

Short answer A universal knife usually refers to a small to medium all-purpose knife (about 10–15 cm) for everyday cutting tasks. Often this means the utility or paring knife.

Short answer A tomato knife is a small knife (about 11–14 cm) with a fine serrated edge and often a forked tip. The teeth grip the smooth tomato skin without squashing the fruit.

Short answer A cleaver (butcher’s cleaver) is a very heavy, wide knife with a thick spine. Its weight separates bones and joints with a powerful vertical blow.

Short answer The mezzaluna is a half-moon-shaped rocking knife with a handle at each end. Rocking it back and forth chops herbs in particular very finely.

Short answer A salmon knife has a very long, narrow and often flexible blade, frequently with a Granton edge. It is used to cut wafer-thin slices of smoked salmon without them sticking to the blade.

Short answer A bread roll knife is a small breakfast knife with a short blade and a rounded tip. In Solingen, the classic shape with an arched spine is called a Buckels knife.

Short answer A Damascus knife is worth it above all if looks and craftsmanship matter to you. Cutting performance is usually determined by the core steel in the middle – not by the number of Damascus layers. A well-hardened mono steel cuts just as well.

Short answer HRC stands for Rockwell hardness (scale C). European kitchen knives are usually 55–58 HRC, Japanese ones often 60 HRC and more. Harder blades stay sharp longer but are more brittle and sensitive.

Short answer Forged blades are hammered into shape from a red-hot steel blank under high pressure and usually have an integrated bolster. Stamped blades are punched or lasered out of a steel sheet – they are lighter and cheaper.

Short answer 1.4116 (X50CrMoV15) is a stainless knife steel with about 0.5 % carbon, around 15 % chromium plus molybdenum and vanadium. Hardened to 56–58 HRC, it is robust, easy to resharpen and the proven standard for high-quality kitchen knives from Solingen.

Short answer Stainless means the steel contains at least 10.5 % chromium; knife steels usually have 13–15 %. The chromium forms an invisible protective layer. “Rust-resistant” would be more accurate: stains can still appear with moisture, salt or acid.

Short answer Carbon steel can be sharpened very finely, but it rusts and needs consistent care. Stainless steel such as 1.4116 is easier to care for and more robust. For most households, stainless steel is the more practical choice.

Short answer The bolster is the thickening between blade and handle. It protects the fingers from slipping, stabilises the transition and provides balance. An integrated bolster is typical of forged knives.

Short answer With a full tang, the tang – the part of the blade inside the handle – extends at full width to the end of the handle. The handle scales are riveted onto it. This provides stability and good balance.

Short answer During hardening, the blade is heated to over 1,000 °C and cooled rapidly. Subsequent tempering at around 150–250 °C reduces brittleness. This heat treatment largely determines hardness, toughness and edge retention.

Short answer Powder steel is pressed from finely atomised metal powder. This distributes the carbides particularly finely and makes very high hardness possible. Such steels stay sharp for a long time but are more expensive and more demanding to sharpen.

Short answer Both have to match. Hardness provides edge retention, toughness prevents chipping. For robust everyday knives, a balanced steel at 55–58 HRC is ideal; for very fine edges it can be harder.

Short answer 1.4034 (X46Cr13) is a stainless knife steel without molybdenum and vanadium. 1.4116 (X50CrMoV15) contains both elements and is therefore somewhat tougher and more corrosion-resistant.

Short answer Because heat treatment, grind, blade geometry and workmanship make the difference. Depending on hardening and grinding, the same steel can produce a mediocre or an excellent knife.

Short answer The marking (German for “stainless”) shows that a chromium-alloyed, rust-resistant steel was used. On VOCUT knives, “ROSTFREI” appears below the logo, followed by “Solingen” and “GERMANY”.

Short answer Ceramic blades made of zirconium oxide are considerably harder than any knife steel and therefore stay sharp for a long time. In return they are brittle: they can break if dropped, levered or in contact with bone.

Short answer 18/8 is a stainless steel with about 18 % chromium and 8 % nickel. It is very corrosion-resistant and is used for cutlery and cookware – it is too soft for knife blades.

Short answer In drop forging, a red-hot steel blank is struck into a mould (die) with a drop hammer. This creates blade, bolster and tang from one piece. In Solingen, this is the usual way to forge knives.

Short answer A really sharp knife cuts a sheet of paper without tearing and glides through tomato skin without pressure. If you hold the edge up to the light, it shows no bright reflections – bright lines indicate dull spots.

Short answer In everyday use, regularly hone the knife on a honing steel (15–20° per side) to realign the edge. If it is really dull, sharpen it on a 1,000-grit whetstone until a burr forms, then refine with 3,000 grit or finer.

Short answer European kitchen knives are usually sharpened at 15–20° per side, Japanese knives at about 10–15°. It is best to keep the original angle and hold it as evenly as possible while sharpening.

Short answer With regular use, it is best to briefly hone the knife on a honing steel before every bigger job. Depending on use, cutting surface and care, it needs to be sharpened every few months to about once a year.

Short answer For beginners, a combination stone with 1,000 and 3,000 (or 6,000) grit is ideal: the coarser side sharpens, the finer side refines the edge. Whether the stone is soaked or just moistened is stated in the manufacturer’s instructions.

Short answer Honing only realigns the existing edge without removing any significant material. Sharpening (grinding) removes metal and creates a new edge. “Sharpening” is often used as the umbrella term for both.

Short answer Only with diamond sharpeners, because ceramic is harder than any whetstone made of normal material. This is demanding and the blade can chip in the process. Many manufacturers therefore offer their own sharpening service.

Short answer Yes, but only with effort: each serration is reworked individually with a thin ceramic or diamond rod. Because the tips of the serrations protect the edge, however, a bread knife stays sharp for a very long time.

Short answer You need professional sharpening when the honing steel no longer helps, the edge has chips or nicks, the sharpening angle has become uneven or you don’t trust yourself to sharpen it.

Short answer Stand the honing steel vertically on a cloth, place the blade at an angle of about 15–20° and draw it along the steel in a slight arc from heel to tip. Alternate sides, 5–8 strokes per side, without pressure.

Short answer Ideally both: the honing steel maintains sharpness in everyday use, the whetstone restores it when the knife is dull. If you only want to buy one, start with the honing steel and have the knife professionally sharpened when needed.

Short answer Electric and pull-through sharpeners are fast, but they often remove a lot of material, impose a fixed angle and can cause micro-chipping. For high-quality and forged knives, a honing steel, whetstone or professional service is gentler.

Short answer The burr is a wafer-thin thread of metal that forms on the opposite side during sharpening. You can feel it by carefully stroking your thumb across the edge from the spine towards the edge – never along the edge.

Short answer A leather strop – often with polishing compound – removes the last of the burr after sharpening and polishes the edge. The blade is always drawn spine first.

Short answer For regular maintenance, a ceramic rod is better because it works finely and gently. A diamond rod removes considerably more material and makes sense for very hard steels or when it has to be quick.

Short answer Yes, in most cases. You can grind out small nicks on a coarse stone until the edge is continuous again. Larger chips or a broken tip are best repaired by a specialist workshop.

Short answer The most common causes are hard cutting surfaces such as glass, stone or porcelain, scraping food together with the edge, the dishwasher, loose storage in a drawer and a lack of honing.

Short answer No. A new quality knife is delivered sharp and ready to use straight away. With a honing steel you maintain this sharpness before it noticeably decreases.

Short answer Very hard Japanese knives (60 HRC and above) are better sharpened on whetstones. A drawn steel honing rod can damage the hard, thin edge; at most a fine ceramic rod is suitable.

Short answer A honing steel or ceramic rod is good for maintaining sharpness in everyday use. If the knife is really dull, it needs a whetstone or professional sharpening. As an emergency solution, the unglazed rim on the underside of a ceramic mug will do.

Short answer A normally dull kitchen knife is usually sharp again on a whetstone in 5–15 minutes. Honing on a honing steel only takes 10–20 seconds.

Short answer For very dull knives or small chips, start with a coarse grit (about 200–600), then move to 1,000 and refine with 3,000 or finer.

Short answer The sharpening angle applies per side, the edge angle is the sum of both sides. A knife with 15° per side therefore has an edge angle of 30°.

Short answer You sharpen a double-bevel Santoku like VOCUT’s like a chef’s knife – on a whetstone at about 15–20° per side. Because the edge is flat, you guide the blade over the stone in straight strokes.

Short answer That depends on steel, hardness, cutting surface and use. With regular honing and a wooden or plastic board, a good knife stays sharp for many weeks to months before it needs to be resharpened.

Short answer Cutting boards made of wood (e.g. maple, beech, olive) or plastic are gentle on the edge. Glass, stone, marble, ceramic and metal are taboo – they make any knife dull in no time.

Short answer With good care, a good Solingen kitchen knife lasts for decades and is often passed on to the next generation. Its service life depends mainly on care, cutting surface and sharpening technique, not on age.

Short answer No, never. Heat, steam and aggressive detergents make olive wood dry out, swell and crack; the connection to the blade can come loose. Always wash knives with wooden handles by hand and dry them immediately.

Short answer Every few weeks, or as soon as it looks dull, rub a few drops of food-safe oil into the dry handle, let it soak in for about ten minutes and wipe off the excess thoroughly. Never in the dishwasher, never soak it.

Short answer Wash knives by hand immediately after use with warm water and a little washing-up liquid, dry them immediately with a cloth and store them safely. Don’t soak, no scouring agents, no dishwasher.

Short answer Ideally on a magnetic strip with a wooden surface, in a knife block or with a blade guard in the drawer. Loose in the cutlery drawer, knives go dull and are dangerous.

Short answer You can remove light rust spots with a paste of baking soda and water, with vinegar water or with a cork and a little oil. Then rinse thoroughly, dry and apply a very thin coat of oil. Deep rust belongs in expert hands.

Short answer With a blade guard, in a knife roll or in a knife case. This keeps the edge undamaged and nobody gets hurt reaching into the bag. When flying, kitchen knives belong safely packed in checked baggage, never in hand luggage.

Short answer Yes, both are possible. Olive wood darkens naturally over time due to light, air and oil. If, on the other hand, the handle looks pale, grey or dull, it has dried out and needs oil.

Short answer Food-safe linseed oil, cutting board oil or white mineral oil are well suited. Cooking oils such as olive oil will do in a pinch, but can smell rancid over time. Boiled linseed oil with drying additives and technical oils are unsuitable.

Short answer Dry immediately after washing, don’t leave it lying wet, no dishwasher, wash off acidic and salty residues promptly and store the knife dry. For longer storage, apply a very thin coat of oil to the blade.

Short answer Wrap the blade thickly in cardboard or newspaper, secure it with tape and label it “Caution knife”. Depending on your local regulations, the package goes in the general waste or to the recycling centre (scrap metal).

Short answer The plastic handle usually withstands the dishwasher. For sharpness, however, hand washing is better, because in the machine the edge can knock against dishes and cutlery and detergents attack the blade.

Short answer Dull, whitish stains are usually limescale. A cloth with a little vinegar water or lemon juice removes them; then rinse thoroughly with clear water and dry immediately.

Short answer Wash wooden boards with hot water and a little washing-up liquid, don’t soak them and let them dry upright. Occasionally rub them with food-safe oil. Not in the dishwasher.

Short answer Yes. On a magnetic strip the blades don’t touch each other and dry well. A strip with a wooden surface is ideal. Attach the knife spine first and remove it the same way so the edge doesn’t scrape across the strip.

Short answer Clean and dry thoroughly, rub a very thin coat of food-safe oil onto the blade, oil wooden handles and store the knife with a blade guard in a dry place.

Short answer No. When soaking, water penetrates wooden handles and joints, and the blade can stain. In addition, a knife under the foam in the sink is a risk of injury.

Short answer Lightly smooth the handle with very fine sandpaper (400 grit or finer), remove the dust and then oil it. Usually it is silky smooth again afterwards.

Short answer On stainless steel, discolouration is usually limescale, water stains, residues of acidic food or surface rust. They can usually be removed with vinegar water or a baking soda paste.

Short answer Yes. Warm water and a little mild washing-up liquid are ideal. Then rinse thoroughly and dry immediately. Scouring agents, steel wool and abrasive sponges are taboo.

Short answer Plastic handles don’t need oil. After use, wash in hot water, dry and regularly hone the blade on the honing steel. For sharpness, hand washing is better than the dishwasher.

Short answer Take out the knives, remove crumbs and dust from the slots with a vacuum cleaner or a thin brush, wipe the outside with a damp cloth and let the block dry well. Only put dry knives in.

Short answer Yes, if only clean, dry knives go in and the block is cleaned regularly. Wet knives encourage germs and stains. A magnetic strip is even easier to keep clean.

Short answer In the short term yes, in very small amounts. However, olive oil can smell rancid over time. Food-safe linseed oil, cutting board oil or white mineral oil are better suited.

Short answer The safest way is the pinch grip: thumb and bent index finger grip the blade directly in front of the handle, the other three fingers wrap around the handle. This gives you maximum control over the blade.

Short answer With the claw grip, you curl the fingertips of the hand holding the food inwards. The blade glides along the knuckles, and the fingertips stay out of reach of the edge.

Short answer Dull knives need more force and slip more easily on smooth surfaces such as tomato or onion skin. A sharp knife glides through food in a controlled way and is therefore safer.

Short answer Step back and let the knife fall – never try to catch it. Then check the blade and tip: small nicks or a bent tip can usually be ground out.

Short answer Handle first with the blade pointing down, or put the knife down on the work surface and let the other person pick it up there. When carrying it, hold the blade pointing down and close to your body.

Short answer Children learn best with a small, well-cutting knife with a rounded tip, on soft food, on a non-slip board and always under supervision. Practise the claw grip first, then cutting.

Short answer Halve the onion, place it cut side down on the board and leave the root end intact. Cut lengthwise first, then crosswise – with the guiding hand in the claw grip. A sharp knife prevents slipping and watery eyes caused by crushed cells.

Short answer Rinse the wound with clean water, stop the bleeding with pressure and a clean dressing and hold the hand up. For deep, gaping or heavily bleeding wounds, seek medical help.

Short answer In public, you should only transport kitchen knives securely packed in a closed container, for example on the way home from buying them or to work. German weapons law restricts carrying knives, and in many places there are weapon and knife ban zones.

Short answer Under water and foam you can’t see the knife – reaching in risks cutting injuries. In addition, the edge knocks against dishes, and wooden handles soak up water.

Short answer First create a flat side: halve the onion, potato or pumpkin or cut off a thin slice and place it on the flat side. That way nothing can roll away.

Short answer Place a damp kitchen towel or a non-slip mat under the board. Many boards also have rubber feet.

Short answer “Solingen” is a legally protected designation of origin. It may only appear on cutlery that has been processed and finished in all essential production stages in the Solingen industrial area – Solingen and Haan.

Short answer Neither is generally better. Solingen knives are usually more robust, stainless, sharpened on both sides and easy to resharpen. Japanese knives are often harder and ground thinner, which makes them sharper at first but more delicate and care-intensive.

Short answer Genuine Solingen knives bear the origin marking “Solingen” on the blade and come from a clearly named manufacturer who discloses steel, hardness and production. Phrases such as “Solingen style” or “German design” are not an indication of origin.

Short answer Because blades have been made in Solingen since the Middle Ages and the city is known worldwide for knives, scissors and cutlery. Water power from the streams of the Bergisches Land and craftsmanship passed down over generations made Solingen what it is.

Short answer The Solingen Ordinance (SolingenV) of 16 December 1994 stipulates that only cutlery processed and finished in all essential production stages in Solingen or Haan may be called “Solingen”. It covers knives, scissors and cutlery, among other things.

Short answer In Solingen knife making, the Ausmacher is the finisher: he removes the last irregularities, sharpens, inspects and completes the knife before it leaves the workshop. The father of VOCUT founder Orazio Vella worked as an Ausmacher.

Short answer A Schleifkotten is a historic, usually water-powered grinding workshop in the Bergisches Land, where blades were ground on large grindstones. Some Kotten in the Solingen area are now open to the public as museums.

Short answer In addition to chef’s, bread and pocket knives, small everyday knives are particularly typical, such as the Buckels knife (breakfast and bread roll knife with an arched spine) and the Zöppkes knife, which is also called a Pitter knife regionally.

Short answer Legally they have to be: the designation “Solingen” is protected and violations are prosecuted. Nevertheless, counterfeits do appear, especially on marketplaces. That is why you should buy from manufacturers who make their production transparent.

Short answer Blades have been made in Solingen since the Middle Ages. Over centuries, a network of specialised craftsmen developed – from the smith and the grinder to the Ausmacher.

Short answer The Bergisches Land is a region in North Rhine-Westphalia between the Rhine, Ruhr and Sieg rivers, which includes Solingen, Remscheid and Wuppertal. Its many streams once powered hammers and grinding mills.

Short answer Professional chefs usually work with a few very sharp knives: a chef’s knife (20–25 cm) as the main tool, a small utility knife, a bread knife and, depending on the station, a fillet, boning or carving knife.

Short answer Butcher knives are robust professional knives for slaughtering, breaking down, boning and portioning meat – such as boning, butchering, sticking and slaughter knives. They usually have non-slip, hygienic plastic handles and stainless blades.

Short answer Typical basic equipment consists of a boning knife, butchering knife, sticking or slaughter knife, fillet knife, a cleaver or rocking knife and a honing steel – each with a stainless blade and a hygienic handle.

Short answer According to the HACCP principle, coloured handles help to avoid cross-contamination. Common is: red for raw meat, blue for fish, yellow for poultry, green for fruit and vegetables, white for dairy products and baked goods, brown for cooked food.

Short answer Plastic handles are non-porous, can be cleaned hot and disinfected, are available in HACCP colours and remain non-slip even with wet, greasy hands. That makes them the standard in butcher shops and gastronomy.

Short answer For restaurants and canteens, chef’s knives, Santoku or Nakiri, utility knives, bread knives, fillet knives and a honing steel have proven themselves. Robust, stainless blades and hygienic handles are important.

Short answer Butchers hone their knives on the honing steel several times a day, often after every major work step. They are sharpened regularly, weekly to monthly depending on use.

Short answer For brisket, a long BBQ or carving knife (22–25 cm) that cuts clean slices in one stroke is ideal. Pulled pork is usually pulled apart; a rocking or butchering knife helps to cut up large pieces.

Short answer Ideally a boning knife with a narrow, pointed blade: it cleanly separates legs and breast at the joints. A strong butchering or rocking knife is suitable for cutting through the backbone.

Short answer Yes. VOCUT offers professional knives for butchers and gastronomy and is looking for retailers for a long-term partnership. You can reach us by email at info@vocut.de or by phone and WhatsApp at +49 157 39046351.

Short answer For butchering game, a boning knife for deboning, a butchering knife for portioning and a cleaver or saw for bones are suitable. A honing steel keeps the edges sharp in between.

Short answer For catering, robust, hygienic knives with plastic handles have proven themselves: chef’s knife, utility knife, bread knife, a long carving or BBQ knife and a honing steel – safely transported in a knife roll.

Short answer Look for laser engraving instead of etching, a short, legible message (1–2 lines), a high-quality knife and enough delivery time: with engraving, VOCUT adds 2–4 working days of processing time.

Short answer For BBQ fans, a BBQ knife (22 cm), steak knives for the table or a rocking knife are ideal – preferably with a personal laser engraving. These knives are used at every BBQ evening.

Short answer You enter your text when ordering. The knife is individually laser-engraved in Solingen, checked and shipped. The engraving goes on the back of the blade; the logo side remains unchanged.

Short answer Laser engraving adds 2–4 working days of processing time; in total it is typically 4–7 working days. For birthdays, weddings and the run-up to Christmas, it is better to plan in a generous buffer.

Short answer Popular choices are names, initials, a date, coordinates of a special place, a nickname or a short sentence. 1–2 short lines look best.

Short answer On the back of the blade, i.e. the side without the VOCUT logo and origin stamp. This leaves the “Solingen” marking unchanged, and your engraving has its own calm surface.

Short answer Many VOCUT knives with olive wood handles are available with laser engraving, including chef’s knife, Santoku, Nakiri, Kiritsuke, bread knife, steak knife and BBQ knife. You can find all engravable knives in the category “Knives with personalised laser engraving”.

Short answer Simple logos and symbols are often possible. It is best to write to VOCUT in advance via the contact form or by email at info@vocut.de so that feasibility can be checked.

Short answer Individually engraved knives are made to your specifications. They are excluded from the statutory right of withdrawal and from the voluntary 60-day returns – except in the case of a defect or if VOCUT made a mistake, for example a wrong engraving.

Short answer According to an old superstition, a knife given as a gift could “cut through” the friendship. That is why the recipient symbolically gives back a coin and thus “buys” the knife. Many people put the coin in with the gift right away.

Short answer A high-quality chef’s knife or a knife set engraved with the names and wedding date. It is used every day and reminds the couple of their special day every time they cook.

Short answer For home cooks, a forged chef’s knife or Santoku, a Nakiri for vegetable fans or a knife set – ideally with laser engraving – are good choices. A honing steel is a useful addition.

Short answer Yes. A good chef’s knife or a small knife set belongs in every new kitchen and is used every day. Engraved with names or the moving-in date, it becomes a personal keepsake.

Short answer A BBQ knife, a rocking knife or steak knives – ideally engraved with the name or a personal saying. Allow 2–4 working days of additional processing time.

Short answer A high-quality chef’s knife, a Kiritsuke or a Nakiri with engraving. Professionals also appreciate a good honing steel.

Short answer Yes, an engraved knife from Solingen is a long-lasting gift for customers and employees. For larger quantities or logos, it is best to contact VOCUT in advance.

Short answer VOCUT resharpens forged VOCUT knives with a plain edge free of charge, no matter where you bought them. You only bear the costs of shipping there and back. VOCUT sharpens non-forged knives and knives from other brands for a fee (€5.90 per knife, from 5 knives €5.40). Knives with a serrated edge are not sharpened.

Short answer VOCUT does not buy in ready-made standard handles: the olive wood handles are made from solid raw olive wood blocks from Italy. This makes every handle unique with its own grain.

Short answer VOCUT uses stainless knife steel 1.4116 (X50CrMoV15), hardened to 56–58 HRC. It is robust, rust-resistant, easy to resharpen and the proven standard for high-quality kitchen knives from Solingen.

Short answer VOCUT is a knife brand from the Solingen region, founded by Orazio Vella. His father worked as an Ausmacher (knife finisher) in the Solingen knife industry – this craft is the root of the brand.

Short answer VOCUT knives are made entirely in Solingen. This applies to the cutlery; for steak cutlery and cutlery sets, the forks and spoons are not made in Solingen.

Short answer From an order value of €100, VOCUT delivers within Germany free of shipping costs. Below that, VOCUT charges a flat rate of €6.90 per order.

Short answer Within Germany, your order usually arrives within 1–3 working days. Laser engraving adds 2–4 working days of processing time. Sundays and public holidays are not delivery days.

Short answer No. VOCUT currently only delivers within Germany.

Short answer You can pay by PayPal, credit card, SEPA direct debit, “Pay later” via PayPal, via Klarna (including instant bank transfer, invoice, instalments) or by prepayment. Cash payment is also possible for self-collection.

Short answer Yes, self-collection is possible. VOCUT will inform you by email as soon as the goods are ready. There are no shipping costs for collection, and you can pay in cash.

Short answer As a consumer, you have a statutory right of withdrawal of 14 days from receipt of the goods. You declare the withdrawal by email to info@vocut.de, by letter or via the online withdrawal form. In addition, VOCUT voluntarily offers returns within 60 days.

Short answer At VOCUT you can voluntarily return goods within 60 days of receipt if they are unused and undamaged. You bear the return shipping costs, except for defective or faulty goods. Your statutory 14-day right of withdrawal remains unaffected.

Short answer Withdrawal is your statutory right as a consumer and applies for 14 days from receipt of the goods. The 60-day return is an additional, voluntary offer from VOCUT. It extends the time for a return but does not change your statutory right of withdrawal.

Short answer Only to forged VOCUT knives with a plain edge, no matter where they were bought – for example chef’s knives 16 and 21 cm, Santoku 16 cm, Nakiri 16 cm, steak knife 12 cm and the plain-edged knives from the 5-piece set.

Short answer Regular resharpening of forged VOCUT knives is free of charge; you only bear the shipping costs there and back. Repairs such as fixing larger nicks may incur costs – you will be informed about this in advance. VOCUT sharpens non-forged VOCUT knives and knives from other brands for a fee: €5.90 per knife, from 5 knives in one shipment €5.40 per knife, return shipping €6.90.

Short answer No. Knives with a serrated edge, for example bread knives, are excluded from the free resharpening service. The service only applies to forged VOCUT knives with a plain edge.

Short answer Yes. The free resharpening service applies to all forged VOCUT knives with a plain edge – even if you bought them via eBay or another platform. VOCUT sharpens knives from other manufacturers for a fee.

Short answer Secure the blade with a blade guard or sturdy cardboard, pad the knife well and send it to VOCUT in a sturdy box. It is best to let us know beforehand via the contact form or by email at info@vocut.de.

Short answer Forged knives include the 16 cm and 21 cm chef’s knives, the 16 cm Santoku, the 16 cm Nakiri, the 12 cm steak knife and the 5-piece knife set. In the shop you can recognise them by the word “forged” in the product name.

Short answer Yes. VOCUT knives are delivered sharpened and ready to use. With regular honing you will maintain the sharpness for a long time.

Short answer By email at info@vocut.de, by phone and WhatsApp at +49 157 39046351 or via the contact form in the shop.

Short answer No. The Solingen origin applies to the cutlery blades. For steak cutlery and cutlery sets, the knife is from Solingen; forks and spoons are made of 18/8 stainless steel and are not made in Solingen.

Short answer Yes, VOCUT has its own eBay shop. Good to know: the free resharpening service also applies to forged VOCUT knives that you bought on eBay.

Short answer The slogan is a German play on words: “abschneiden” means both “to cut off” and “to perform” – the knives cut superbly and come out on top in comparison.

Short answer Prices depend on model, size and design – forged knives with olive wood handles are priced higher than stamped models. You can find current prices on the respective product pages in the shop.

Short answer Get in touch as quickly as possible by email at info@vocut.de or by phone. As long as the order has not yet been shipped or engraved, changes are usually still possible.

Short answer Please contact us directly by email at info@vocut.de with your order number and photos of the damage. The statutory warranty rights apply.

Short answer Wash by hand and dry immediately, cut on wood or plastic, hone regularly on the honing steel and occasionally oil olive wood handles. You can send in forged knives for resharpening free of charge.

Short answer VOCUT sells online via vocut.de. Self-collection is possible – VOCUT will inform you by email as soon as your order is ready.